The Fashion Fast
As ‘throwaway fashion’ and overconsumption take an increasing toll on our planet’s resources Emma McHugh asks whether we should all be adopting a New Year’s resolution of a different kind.
Emma McHugh & Adam Shilton
Healthy lifestyle choices and ‘a little bit less of what’s bad for you’ are often found on the New Year’s resolutions list, but January 2019’s best intentions seem to have been defined by a very different approach; total abstinence. This year, a record number signed up to take part in Veganuary which saw 300,000 people adopting an entirely plant-based diet for the duration of the month. Similarly, an estimated 4 million people also marked a Dry January this year, to reflect on their drinking habits while also giving their bodies respite following the excesses of the festive season.
Yet it’s not just abstaining from what we put into our bodies that has seen a shift in public opinion of late, what we put on them is coming under increased scrutiny too as people adopt a resolution of a different kind; the Fashion Fast.
This ‘movement’, which began to gain traction last year is rapidly becoming a part of the wider fashion conversation as consumers become increasingly enlightened to the damage so called “throwaway fashion culture” is having on the planet. Indeed in October 2018 MP’s also joined the debate with The Environmental Audit Committee writing a letter to the UK’s 10 biggest high-street fashion retailers inviting them into parliament to outline their sustainability credentials.
But this fashion overload isn’t limited exclusively to our high streets.
It’s fair to say that over the past decade online and social media have radically changed the way in which we shop with the latter somewhat covertly becoming the latest retail frontier. Instagram in particular has become not only the go-to destination for fashion inspiration but also the go-to destination for savvy brands wishing to connect with a style conscious consumer, where ‘influencer’ endorsements and #ads have crept into our collective consciousness. Over lunch we can browse the endless catwalk of ‘fast fashion’ and shop the dress worn by our favourite style superstar with ‘1-Click’ and be wearing it the following day. Waiting is no longer acceptable as ‘see now buy now’ has rewired retail.
Further support for the Fashion Fast, comes in the form of a recent report that states the UK consumer now purchases twice as many clothes as they did 10 years ago causing stress on virgin resources whilst also pushing landfills to the limit. It is against this backdrop of mass overconsumption and environmental degradation that has caused many to feel we have reached fashion saturation. It’s time to detox.
But help is at hand. Apps such as Good On You provide information about the ethical and sustainable credentials of over 3000 fashion brands and gives ‘Great’ to ‘We avoid’ ratings to consumers demanding greater transparency. In the same vein, a recent Business of Fashion report cited 9 out of 10 Generation Z customers will only purchase from brands with a commitment to social and environmental responsibility. Similarly, nearly three quarters of people now wish for their purchases to make a medium to significant positive impact on social or environmental issues according to a report by Sustainable Brands.
Meanwhile the recent swell of interest in Marie Kondo’s minimalist decluttering KonMari method is perfectly attuned to the current appetite to cherish and value that which we have, rather than aspiring to accumulate more.
So unlike many of January’s best intentions that barely make it over the line to February, the Fashion Fast is a resolution that looks set to see out the year. As consumers’ shopping habits evolve to be more holistic, retail players that have a transparent attitude to their ethical credentials will increasingly be rewarded, while those that maintain a closed-door policy will come under greater public scrutiny. And while affordable, easily accessible fashion can be liberating, this should also be balanced with making responsible choices. Importantly for brands, it is an awareness of these emerging consumer trends and a genuine appetite to make a real difference that will be the key to us all having a truly Happy New Year in 2019.
Emma McHugh is a graphic designer, blogger and Creative Director at a leading London design agency.